for a trip up the road to Phoenix. Chuck was in need of some dental work, and we had gotten the name of a dentist from our cousin Raina. Actually, we made the trip twice and had planned to meet up with Raina and Jesse for lunch. But Chuck’s extended time in the dental chair (two and a half hours) and Raina and Jesse’s early afternoon appointment cancelled that get together. But on the second trip we did have the chance for an extended lunch with our aunt Evie and Raina at—where else—Andreoli Italian Market in Scottsdale.
When we arrived—late—Evie and Raina were sharing Andreoli’s Maresciallo—an antipasta plate with assorted meats, cheeses, and olives served with a basket of house baked bread. No photo exists of this plate. We were so ravenous that we demolished the remainder in record order and barely took a breath let alone a photo.
We took a more leisurely approach to the order of Calamaretti di Suora Celeste or deep fried calamari rings and tentacles served—as are many of Andreoli’s dishes—with a small salad. This is calamari that needs no embellishment. No marinara. No flavored aioli. No lemon. Just the thinly battered and sweet calamari.
With the calamari came an order of Patatine Fritte—Andreoli’s answer to French fries with fried leek strips and about which I have written at great length in the past.
But it was time to move on the main courses. Evie chose a bowl of potato and leek soup that was broth based rather than cream based. The bowl contained large chunks of potato and leeks in a broth that had been flavored by the addition of prosciutto trimmings that contained both fat and meat.
We then moved on to the multiple sandwich extravaganza—starting with the Tizio with Andreoli’s house made sausage and sautéed onions and peppers.
The Tizio was joined by the Forza Italia with speck, trugele cheese (a cow's milk, semi-soft cheese from the Piedmont region in Italy. It most closely resembles Asiago), and arugula.
Not too long thereafter came the Bocco di Rosa or eggplant, mozzarella, tomato sauce, and parmigiano sandwich.
And our final sandwich was the Porchetta—a favorite of Raina, Chuck, and me.
By this time we were quite full—but not too full for dessert. So we shared a plate of two sfogliatella and chocolate truffles. The latter were like a very creamy and rich chocolate fudge, and I dare anyone to eat more than one at a time.
Sfogliatella “are unquestionably the sweet symbol of one of the most representative cities of Italy, Naples, the capital of the Region of Campania…. Outside Italy, though, they are seen as a quintessential part of the whole pasticceria italiana: the sfogliatelle.
The queen is undoubtedly the sfogliatella riccia (curly), made with a soft, flaky dough, similar to puff pastry or phyllo and filled with a mixture of ricotta, semolina, sugar, cinnamon, eggs and some candied citrus and/or other fruit” (itchefs-gvci.com). These had a fairly crunchy outer shell and were filled with a lemon flavored ricotta mixture.
Andreoli remains one of our all time favorites and again receives a 5.0 Addie rating.
To review the role of Adler, Kitty Humbug, and the Addie rating system, read the November 14, 2011 blog.
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