From Lincoln to Obama

A couple of days after visiting the present Illinois State Capitol, we stopped by the Old Capitol in Springfield, IL.

This building served as the seat of Illinois state government from 1839 to 1876. At the time, it was the fifth Illinois state government capitol.

The building is closely associated with Abraham Lincoln. He served as part of the first state legislature that sat here between 1840 and 1841. He gave his famous "House Divided" speech here in 1858 in the Representatives Hall.

"'A house divided against itself cannot stand.' I believe this government cannot endure, permanently, half slave and half free. I do not expect the Union to be dissolved; I do not expect the house to fall; but I do expect it will cease to be divided."

After his assassination, he laid in state here as well.

Also located in the Old Capitol was the State Supreme Court. As you can see in the photo, a problem existed that would soon be remedied--the court consisted of four judges. The possibility of 2-2 decisions was corrected with the change to a nine-judge panel.

This room contained desks of legislators as well as an area






for relaxing with card games and other games.








This is the only original desk of senators and representatives. This painting is one of the original paintings hanging in the Illinois House of Representatives.









This is the view from one of the desks in the House of Represen-tatives. The quill pens present a stark contrast to the presence of laptop computers on legislators' desks of today (see yesterday's entry).

A portrait of George Washington hung in the House.

This is the office of Lyman Trumbull, perhaps one of the greatest fighters for African-American rights in our history.

His most prominent legislative achieve-ment as a U.S. Senator from Illinois was his proposal of the Thirteenth Amendment. Trumbull rewrote the resolution of the Thirteenth Amendment, originally written by Senator John Henderson. It amended the United States Constitution so that slavery and servitude were illegal and gave Congress the power to enforce it. With this change, Trumbull fought for the consideration of the amendment. The Senate and the House both passed it and on January 31, 1865, it was sent to the states for ratification.

At the outbreak of the Civil War in 1861, Ulysses S. Grant left Galena (IL) to deliver a group of volunteers to Springfield to join the U.S. Army. When officials there learned that he was a West Point graduate and already had a 15-year military career, he was given this space under the stairs to the gallery of the Senate. Shortly thereafter, he was commissioned a colonel of the 21st Illinois Volunteer Infantry Regiment and led his forces west to the Mississippi River where he engineered the Union victory at Vicksburg in 1863.

It was from these steps on February 10, 2007, that Senator Barack Obama announced his candidacy for President of the United States.

Illinois State Capitol

Entering the Illinois State Capitol in Springfield, I thought a tour would not be possible.

The halls of the 134-year-old building were filled with two large groups of visitors, one wearing red shirts and the other wearing green shirts, which identified the groups' respective causes.

Add to these groups the members of the media covering the groups' causes, members of the legislature, their staff, lobbyists, the Capitol staff, and a few visitors wandering the halls at a more leisurely pace and you have noise and animated activity--all, supposedly, in the conduct of the people's business.

The architectural style has been described as a synthesis of eighteenth century baroque and nineteenth century classical that was common in public buildings constructed in the period following the Civil War.
























The Capitol rotunda is the center of this activity. Located over the rotunda is the impressive dome, rising 361 feet above the ground. I found a place next to one of the pillars and spent a good amount of time studying the art and architecture of the dome.

I later learned that at the very top of the dome an eagle carries a banner with the phrase “State Sovereignity” (sic) placed above “National Union.” This is opposite of what appears on the “official” Great Seal of Illinois. The placement of the phrases was the topic of significant debate during the adoption of the seal in the 19th century.











A plaster frieze encircles the dome above the corbel statues. The frieze (in the photos, right and below), painted to resemble bronze, is considered by many to be some of the best artwork in the Capitol.

Several of the scenes, e.g., Abraham Lincoln and Steven A. Douglas, in their great campaign of 1858, can be identified, but there is some doubt as to other events depicted in the scenes, because the artist, T. Nicolai died before it was wholly completed.








The central rotunda separates the north, south, east, and west wings which comprise the cross and are all three stories in height.

A walk down the east wing provided ample opportunity to admire the architec-tural detail along the walls and ceiling.

The ceiling painting below, as well as the early murals in the north and south halls of the first floor were done by unknown artists of the Phillipson Decorative Company of Chicago in 1886.

The painting (right) is identified as "Faith" and shows a woman of religion holding a cross.





















































One of the eight murals added to the walls of the north and south corridors of what is now the first floor of the Capitol around 1885 is shown below. This mural in the south hall shows "Future Governor Edward Coles Freeing His Slaves While Enroute to Illinois, 1819".

Unfortunately the names of the artists who painted the eight original murals are unknown.








This is a view of the rotunda from the second floor.























The 40' x 20' depiction (right) of George Rogers Clark negotiating with Native Americans at Fort Kaskaskia in 1778 is the largest painting in the Capitol and is identified as the Grand Staircase painting on the third floor. It was done by Gustav A. Fuchs, a German immigrant from Chicago, and completed in 1886. The painting has been criticized because the Indian culture portrayed was never found in Illinois.



There was little activity on the Illinois State Senate floor on the day of this visit.






















I wondered how many of the people who work in this magnificent building take time to admire the details of the art and architecture.

Maybe that luxury is enjoyed by us tourists.

Why Is This Woman Smiling?

The answer, as they say in the news biz, lies “below the fold.”

Guy Fieri wasn’t the only TV food personality to visit Springfield. Adam Richman of the Travel Channel’s Man v. Food also ventured here and while here dropped in on Darcy’s Pint (see our blog on May 19th), Joe Roger’s Chili Parlor (an upcoming blog), and the Cozy Dog Inn. This latter eatery was on all three (Dora, Chuck, me) of our lists of “must do’s” and is truly a spot, with its collection of Route 66 memorabilia, not to be missed.

As described in the Illinois Times: “It’s practically a place of pilgrimage. A Mecca for food historians. Tourists flock there, not just from Illinois, but from all across America and around the globe, by motorcycle, by car and by the busload. It’s the Cozy Dog on South Sixth Street.”

More from the Illinois Times: “The story of Cozy Dogs—the original hot dogs on a stick, deep-fried in cornmeal batter—is almost as familiar as Lincoln lore to anyone knowledgeable about Springfield history.

“Cozy Dogs’ creator, Ed Waldmire, had eaten an unusual sandwich on a trip to Muskogee, Okla., during his youth: a wiener baked in cornbread. Returning to Illinois, Waldmire told a fellow student at Knox College about it, saying he wished he could make something similar that would cook faster.

“A few years later Waldmire, now in the Air Force stationed at Amarillo, Texas, had forgotten the conversation. But unbeknownst to him, it was on the mind of his college buddy, Don Strand, whose father owned a bakery. Strand developed a cornmeal mix that would stick on a wiener and could be deep-fried. Strand sent his mix to Texas, and Waldmire experimenting in the U.S.O. kitchen with hot dogs stuck on cocktail forks, communicating back and forth until the recipe for their ‘Crusty Curs’ was perfected. Waldmire sold ‘thousands’ at the U.S.O. and P.X. as well as in the town of Amarillo until he returned to Springfield at the end of his military service in 1946.

“Waldmire wanted to introduce his creation to his hometown, but his wife, Virginia, thought the moniker ‘Crusty Cur’ was a bit too…crusty. The couple came up with the name ‘Cozy Dog,’ and Virginia designed the logo of two corn dogs in a ‘cozy’ embrace.

“Cozy Dogs were ‘officially launched’ at the Lake Springfield Beach House on June 16, 1946, and later that year sold at the Illinois State Fair.... In 1949, The Cozy Dog Drive In—what would become the flagship—was born and took root on South Sixth Street, then also part of Route 66. When Ed retired, son Buzz and Buzz’s wife, Sue, took over. In 1996, the Cozy Dog was transplanted one door to the north. It not only survived the transplant, but flourished; these days Sue and her sons are in charge: Josh and Tony work in the restaurant; Nick maintains the Web site.”

The menu is short and cheap (not quite as this old menu, below, seems today)—a Cozy Dog will set you back $1.85. Other choices include a hamburger (single patty or double), cheeseburger (also a single or double), hot dog, chili dog, chili cheese dog, cheese dog, pork tenderloin, ham and cheese sandwich, BBQ sandwich, grilled cheese, and chicken strips. For sides, you can order fries, onion rings, cole slaw, mushrooms, cheese sticks, and nacho chips.






Dora’s lunch was a Cozy Dog with a side of onion rings.







For Chuck it would be the Cozy Dog with a double cheese-burger and fries.

So how good is a Cozy Dog? Neither Chuck nor I are fond of the traditional state fair variety corn dog. Way too heavy and greasy. Well, a Cozy Dog is neither heavy nor greasy. In fact, it is really quite good. The coating resembled a pancake batter with a touch of corn meal for crispness and under that crusty exterior lies a moist and juicy hot dog. (Oscar Mayer I think.)

But as good as the Cozy Dog was, to Chuck the double cheeseburger was the highlight. I know that I have in the past made reference to Goodnoe’s Dairy Bar in Newton, PA and the wonderful burgers that would come from their well-used flattop. (Until they renovated and replaced the flattop after which nothing was the same.) After one bite, Chuck proclaimed: “This is just like a Goodnoe’s burger.” I did take a taste and this was, in fact, very similar to Goodnoe’s, but with even a better beef flavor which I think only comes from Midwest beef. Perhaps its being a double made it even more flavorful and juicy. And, as we were leaving, I did notice that the flattop behind the counter looked as if it had seen years of service.

And now to answer the question that started this blog. Sure, I was at the home of the Cozy Dog, but the words pork tenderloin beckoned. Just as I consider Tony Luke’s roast pork Italiano with broccoli rabe sautéed in olive oil and garlic to be the ultimate Philadelphia sandwich, I have long considered the breaded pork tenderloin sandwich to be the finest example of Midwest sandwich art. And when I saw that Cozy Dog offered the pork tenderloin for $3.05, how could I resist?

A good pork tenderloin will extend beyond the borders of the bun. If a standard hamburger is between three and four inches, this baby had to be between five and six inches in diameter. A good pork tenderloin is pounded within an inch of its life to achieve a thickness of a quarter of an inch. This was nice and thin without being dry. And a good pork tenderloin has crispy edges and true aficionados will nibble the edges beyond the bun before eating the bun-encased meat. This one met that test. And, fortunately, Cozy Dog has a condiment bar so one can dress the sandwich “their way.” And the only way is with hamburger dills, raw onion, and yellow hot dog mustard. Is it any wonder I was smiling?

The only low point was the onion rings, which both Dora and I had ordered. These were of the pre-made chopped and reformed variety and didn’t deserve to share the menu with the Cozy Dog, double hamburger, and pork tenderloin.

And on the way out, I had to stop and purchase a stuffed version of the Cozy Dog logo. Superdawg in Chicago has named its giant hot dogs adorning its roof Maurie and Flaurie after the founders and owners. So, in the spirit of Superdawg, I have named mine Cozy and Flozy.

What a place! I’d love to award 5.0 Addies, but the awful onion rings just won’t let me do it, so 4.5 Addies it will be.

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Photos of Chuck and Kate: courtesy of cousin Dora.

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NOTE: I understand some photos did not appear on yesterday's entry. I have re-entered them and hope that the problem has been corrected.

Thank You, Mr. Shea

If ever there was an attraction that belonged on Historic Route 66, it would be Shea's Gas Station Museum in Springfield, IL.

Upon entering the station, we were introduced to the humor and the preservationist drive of Bill Shea, Sr. There on the piece of furniture (right), identified as "The Table of Contents," was a photograph (right and below) of the former Mahan's Station, rumored to be the oldest filling station in Illinois.

In February 2000, Mr. Shea had moved the station 21 miles from Middletown, Illinois to its current location within the museum compound. Over the intervening years, he has fully restored it to its 1920s splendor.

I think this historic station stands as a tribute to the automobile and the Mother Road. My appreciation of Mr. Shea's stunning restoration of this "Route 66 Roadside Attraction" is reflected in my desire to capture in these photos the beauty of the restored station from different angles.





















Mr. Shea, a gas station man since the late '40s, turned his vintage former Texaco and Marathon filling station (left) into a petroliana museum, stuffed with old gas pumps, oil cans, phone booths, signs, an Airstream trailer (right), a Ward school bus, and other mementos of the golden age of American roadside travel.

There were a number of gasoline pumps and globes, e.g., Mobilgas (right), Magnolia Gas, Humble Gasoline, Mohawk Gasoline, Frontier Gas, Johnson Gasoline, Red Hat Gasoline, and Polly Gas (left).

We were interested in one particular type of gas pump and asked Mr. Shea how these visible gas pumps worked. He showed the pump on the back of this tank. The pump would force gas into the glass tank from the top. When it was full (10 gallons in the pump in the photos left and below), the attendant would use the hose to move the gasoline by gravity into the gas tank of an auto. As the gasoline moved from the glass container, one could see the amount moving into the car's tank. The glass container also enabled a customer to see the quality (cleanliness) of the gas.

Mr. Shea, now in his 80s, clearly enjoyed answering questions and had a slight grin and twinkle in his eye as we commented on his sayings ("Entrepreneurs should mind their own business") and signs ("Haul of Fame" on the restored 1984 Ward school bus and "Shea Family Wheel Estate" on the 1952 Airstream travel trailer).























Clearly the 50+ years of collecting gas station memorabilia was related to his work in the Shea's Texaco station, but the search for items was also in his blood. This love of finding these treasures (such as the sign, above and light fixture, left) was shared with visitors from every state and over 80 countries.

Interspersed among the gasoline-related items are old TV sets that have photos in front of the screen. So, for example, the image of Mr. Shea from a 1950 photo that appeared on the cover of a 1993 publication (above) appears frozen on the television screen.

As we thanked Mr. Shea and his son, Bill, Jr., I could still hear the "ping-ping," which beckoned the uniformed attendant to "fill-er-up" with 29.9 cents a gallon ethyl.

And don't forget--double green stamps for a fill up.