Upon Arriving in Nashville…

I had two “must go-tos” on my dining list. One was the Loveless Café and the other was a small neighborhood Italian restaurant where they made their own pasta—not by machine, but by rolling by hand with a rolling pin. A restaurant where they make gelato and—in season—cantaloupe water ice. A restaurant where they make all of their breads and also bake for other Nashville restaurants.

But the most recent reviews of this restaurant at tripadvisor.com and urbanspoon.com were all over the board. Some reviewers claimed that the pasta wasn’t always house-made. Some reviewers complained about the slow service. And others stated that the experience wasn’t what they expected after seeing the restaurant featured on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives. Since we were staying in the most eastern part of Nashville, did we want to drive to southwest Nashville? But as our stay was coming to an end, we decided to take a chance and visit Savarino’s Cucina.

“Part bakery, part deli, part café and all Italian, Savarino's Cucina justifiably has attracted a loyal local following since its 2006 opening…. Owner Corrado Savarino, a Brooklyn native, is a whiz at the oven. His house-baked artisan breads and sublime cannoli, cookies and gelato alone are worth a visit. But then you'd be missing some of the city's best from-scratch versions of chicken Marsala, eggplant Parmesan, stuffed peppers, thin-crust pizzas and absolutely delicious Italian sandwiches. Many of the latter, which come on a choice of hoagie roll or Italian bread, are named after some of Music City's most famous Italian-Americans (John Prine's manager Al Bunetta and divorce attorney Rose Palermo, for two), who add to the paesano atmosphere by making Savarino's a near-daily hang. Be aware that service can be leisurely, so best leave the clock-watching for elsewhere” (localeats.com).

Even having been forewarned, I was still surprised upon entering the café. It was dark, flat-screens were hung on every wall, and in the main dining area, all of the tables seated from six to twelve.

And the place was empty with the exception of Chuck and me and another couple. And this was shortly after 1:00 p.m. in a neighborhood in close proximity to Vanderbilt University. About half-way through our lunch, other customers in ones and twos began to wander in and ultimately sat together at one of the long tables and engaged in a detailed conversation about World Cup Soccer.

I began to sense that this might be a neighborhood hang-out and that these large tables were designed to allow new arrivals to find a seat with friends.

An article at nashvillecitypaper.com seems to support my thesis: “A testament to the quality of his food is the Music Square A-listers seated around the bakery/restaurant's plain tables.

With deep pockets and recognizable names, they could power lunch at any number of Nashville's finest restaurants, but they prefer to pal around over a leisurely lunch of Savarino's traditional fare. ‘I have an office on Music Row, but I am headquartering here,’ jokes Al Bunetta, the head of Oh Boy Records. "I have everything I really want here. Coming here is like going home to my grandmother's house….” “…(I)t's the extended family that makes the Hillsboro Village eatery unique. Savarino's has the vibe of a Brooklyn social club, where a coterie of Nashville Italians and Italian food fanatics while away hours gabbing, laughing, reminiscing and interrupting each other with a Yankee intensity that might astound lifelong Southerners” (nashvillescene. com).

Not wanting to risk being served dried pasta from a box (I can do that myself), instead suggested that we focus on the sandwich menu. “Prepare for your head to spin as you contemplate the wondrous sandwiches on the menu, most named after friends or customers. Try the Al Bunetta—breaded chicken cutlet, lettuce, tomato, roasted peppers and balsamic vinegar, or take a walk on the wild side with the Frank DiLeo—broccoli rabe and grilled sausage. Whatever sandwich catches your eye, it will be served hot and fresh on homemade bread” (examiner.com).

“Don't make the mistake of calling Corrado Savarino a chef. ‘I am a baker,’ Savarino said. ‘A chef just cooks. A baker has to do everything. Can a chef make pastries? Never. Can a baker make lasagna? With his eyes closed.’ The 45-year-old Sicily native admits he sounds arrogant, but he's got the chops to back up what he says” (nashvillecitypaper.com).

So Chuck goes to the counter to place our order and returns to wait for our food. And wait. And wait. And wait at a time when there were still only two customers in the house. And we waited some more. Finally!

Chuck’s choice of sandwich was the Doug Shaugnesso (named for a local health care executive and regular Savarino’s patron)

with fennel sausage and peppers with onions and red sauce on a hoagie-like roll.

I ordered the Rose Palermo with grilled chicken, prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, roasted peppers, and marinara sauce.

The fillings for both sandwiches were first rate, but it was the bread that ruled. The interior was light and airy enough to allow the sauce to penetrate without falling apart. And the crust was thin yet very crisp.

Now you won’t see any sides with either of our meals. To Chuck’s dismay they served neither fries nor potato chips. The closest thing Savarino’s comes to a side is a roasted vegetable medly with zucchini, squash, eggplant, and peppers tossed with balsamic vinegar.

But that’s OK. That leaves more room for gelato or the cantaloupe water ice. What? The machine is broken? Che è orribile! So instead we settled for two cannolis which were good but certainly not the best we have eaten.

The filling was good, but I thought that the shells were a bit thick and hard.

It’s hard to evaluate Savarino’s. The overall experience was a bit strange but our sandwiches were well above average. I guess I’ll give the café 3.5 Addies as a default rating.