Saturday, March 3, 2012

New Iberia's Historic Homes

A walk down Main Street in New Iberia, LA, is not to be rushed. This section of the sidewalk with its massive live oaks is made for strolling.

And stroll we did--past the Weeks Home (c. 1910), built as a copy of Shadows-on-the-Teche (below), an antebellum historic house museum property of the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

We have toured this home on at least two earlier visits. Because some 17,000 invoices, receipts, business, legal, and personal letters exist, the docents are able to present a picture of a family whose joys, sorrows, celebrations, and pain made them seem like people we would have liked to have known.

The white-columned brick building was constructed between 1831 and 1834 and was described as "both a survivor and a reminder of another time." This photo was taken, looking through the entrance gate to the property.

This home was described as "a two-story Queen Anne Revival house with well-developed Eastlake details."

The Post and Porches Apartments (c. 1880) was dwarfed by the live oak along the sidewalk.

Another historic home that has undergone a slight change is the Queen Anne Revival with the mansard roof tower. This c. 1890's home was known as the Patout-Broussard home and is now one of the many Bed and Breakfasts in the area.

We were admiring this Queen Anne Revival residence (c. 1890), the live oak, and the landscaping in the front yard, when the homeowner greeted us from her front door.

After a brief introduction, she invited us to see their well-landscaped back yard. She pointed out the uneven terrain and explained that clay had been dug up from this space to make the bricks used by David Weeks to build the Shadows-on-the-Teche.

We were admiring the view of the Bayou Teche when our latest acquain-tance in Cajun Country invited us to have a seat on the bench and enjoy the river. After a few relaxing moments, we slowly made our way back to the street, taking a few minutes to photograph some of the flowers already in bloom in her back yard.



Set back a few yards from the sidewalk in the New Iberia Civic Center park is this Grotto. It is a replica of the Grotto in Lourdes France erected in 1941 as a memorial to the pioneer families of the parish.

A second Bed and Breakfast home, the Estorage-Norton Home (c. 1900s), is this three-story Bungalow-style home built by Edward Estorage completely of cypress.

Our walk continued past this White Pine-style Colonial (c. 1930) and

past this colorful window on another home.

The rocker on the porch of Maison Marseline (c. 1897) presented a welcoming scene.

Near the end of our stroll down Main Street, we came across the style that we are becoming more enamored with--the shotgun house. This one had an open side gallery and late Greek Revival details.

One of the more intriguing homes was the Steam Boat Gothic Architecture home (c. 1886). This urban mansion was the home of Paul Cyr, Lt. Governor under Huey Long.

Finally, the Gebert Oak presented quite an impressive sight. This Live Oak was planted in 1831 over the grave of an infant.

(Information from the brochure: "Historic Main Street, New Iberia".)

Friday, March 2, 2012

It’s Always a Good Idea…

to keep an open mind. Our day’s plans were taking us to Crowley, LA which is two exits down the interstate from our campground. I thought that we had exhausted all of the non-chain restaurant options with the exception of one located at a truck stop/casino complex. Since that place did receive good on-line reviews, we had decided to make it our lunch destination.

But first we needed to stop at the post office. And there across the street stood a small white building with a giant ice cream cone on top bearing the name of “Frosto’s.” What did I know about Frosto’s? Nothing. So during a later stop I asked a local merchant. While explaining that the menu was pretty basic, she did say that if one was looking for an old fashioned, never frozen, hand-pattied hamburger, this was the place. That’s all we needed to know. So we had a late entry to the “Real People Making Real Food” Tour with Frosto’s as Stop Seven.

“Originally opened by Ralph Roseland in 1950 as part of the national chain Zesto*, the business served hotdogs, ice cream and soft drinks. After a few years as Zesto, the business encountered financial hardship. In 1955, Roseland suggested…that Zesto's manager, Helen Larive Lafosse, take over Zesto and assume the debt for the one year of back rent. Lafosse was an eighth-grade educated seamstress who had worked her way to manager at Zesto. Knowing that Roseland was unable to pay rent, Lafosse negotiated a reduced rent with the Lawrences (Ed Note: owners of the land and building) The deal was made on a handshake. She severed ties with the Zesto chain to save the franchise fees. In renaming the business, Lafosse tried to save as much of the neon sign as possible to save costs. She kept the S T O and renamed the business Frosto....

“In the 1960s, Lafosse's daughter, Lola Lafosse Trahan, became a partner in Frosto. Trahan worked in the business from the time she was ten years old.... (In) 1996, Trahan purchased the land and building where her mother began Frosto in 1955. Shortly thereafter, Trahan did a major renovation of the 46-year-old building, including a minor expansion. The sign atop Frosto was restored to the beautiful neon that was the early years” (from a wikipedia.com entry that is not sourced).

Today, the day-to-day operations are under the supervision of Miss Lola’s son Brannon Trahan, although she often comes in between 11:00 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. to help by taking phone take-out orders.

A recent renovation turned this small restaurant into a shrine to the ‘50’s (The Golden Days of My Youth) with many of the artifacts coming from the senior Trahan’s collection. As Brannon explained to us, his dad “is all about the ‘50’s.”

Just inside the front doors is this enlargement of an old Polaroid photo of the ‘50s era Frosto’s,

and along the back wall is this montage depicting the Frosto’s building during different incarna-tions. And no, the photo is not upside down. Instead of having black and white tiles on the floor, the ceiling’s acoustical tiles are black and white.

Embedded in poly-urethane on the table tops are photos from an old yearbook, bottle caps,

‘50s LP’s and 45s (remember these?),

and 50’s era TV and

movie memorabi-lia.

Frosto’s was hopping while we were there. There is a take-out drive-thru window along one side of the building, a small front window for those ordering ice cream, and an indoor glass block order counter. The parking lot contained all manner of vehicles. At one point, there was our Big White Truck, a Caddy, and an expensive-looking sports car.

The menu is posted on a chalkboard over the front counter and burgers, poor boys, salads, wraps, hot dogs,
“snacks” or appetizers, and dinners. Note the interesting pricing. The Club is $8.04 which includes—as do all of the sandwiches and poor boys—your choice of fries or tots and a beverage.

We both went for burgers—for Chuck the giant double burger with fries. The counter person was amazed when Chuck asked that it be dressed with just raw onion. “You don’t mayo or ketchup or anything?” she asked. Don’t you just want to reach in and grab that baby off the screen? While Frosto’s burgers don’t have the intense char flavor as does Cajan’s, the patties are thicker and juicier. Using never-frozen and hand-formed meat makes all the difference.

My choice was the Cajun Burger—the regular sized hamburger lightly coated with spicy Cajun seasoning and grilled onions substituting for raw. In addition to the onions, the burger was dressed with lettuce, tomato, and mayo. I’m not the purist that Chuck is. But I loved the extra flavor provided by the Cajun seasoning.

The fries were of the thin shoestring variety, and I loved them. I don’t care if they came frozen in a bag or were cut in Frosto’s kitchen, they were great. They reminded me of McDonald’s fries, and when in Pennsylvania we might order take-out chicken from KFC, but would make a stop up the road for McDonald’s fries. (Don’t shudder. Even food icons like James Beard and Julia Child were known to praise McDonald’s fries.)

The onion rings were different from, while still being similar to, the best in Southern Louisiana. They had the same ultra-thin beer batter coating, but were thinner, smaller than most and tasted of sweet onions. (We both remarked how they looked like the French's French Fried Onions that come in a can and serve no earthly purpose other than being used in your Thanksgiving Green Bean Casserole. There was no similarity in flavor.)

Our thanks to Brannon Trahan for taking the time during the lunch rush to talk with us about his 4.5 Addie restaurant. In these days of the “franchise-ization” of America, we love to know that there are still small family-owned places like Frosto’s which is now being operated by the third generation. And so, Brannon, as Elvis would say: “Thank you, thank you very much.”

*The Zesto frozen custard drive-in chain got its start in 1945. That's when L.A.M. Phelan developed the Zest-O-Mat freezer and founded Zesto Dairy Products. The earliest known location still in existence is located in Jefferson City, MO. It was built in 1945. By the early 1950s, there were already dozens of locations with three in Evansville, IN, and others as far south as Louisiana. The franchise spread throughout the Midwest, South, and Northwest. At its peak, the company had at least fifty locations. One source says that by 1950, there were Zestos operating in 46 states. There is one known former location in California. By the mid-1950s or early 1960s, the chain had folded. The remaining locations are all independently operated. Originally, these stands only sold ice cream. Over the years, most of them have added other fast food items (agilitynut.com/eateries/zesto.html).

To review the role of Adler, Kitty Humbug, and the Addie rating system, read the November 14, 2011 blog.

Thursday, March 1, 2012

The Atchafalaya in Black and White

With this entry we wrap up a four-segment coverage of our visit to the Atchafalaya Swamp with Kim Voorhies of "The Atchafalaya Experience" tour. His descriptions and stories of life in the swamp went a long way to increasing our appreciation of this natural wonder.

We caught glimpses of the swamp in sunny moments, but for us the mood of the swamp would best be experienced through an early morning fog. But since there was no fog, we decided to photograph these scenes in black and white to approximate the air of mystery and feeling of uncertainty that I associate with a swamp.

To add to our information about the Atchafalaya Swamp we learned the following: "The Atchafalaya River lies at the southern end of Mississippi Valley and is the principle distributary of the Mississippi River. The Mississippi receives surface water runoff from 40 percent of the land area of the continental United States and it has the third largest river drainage area in the world, ap-proximately 1,250,000 square miles. The waters of the Mississippi funnel through the state of Louisiana on their way to the Gulf of Mexico.

"The Atchafalaya River is about 130 miles in length. This is an interesting piece of trivia since the name comes from the Choctaw language meaning
"Long River". For the volume of water it carries, it is one of the shortest rivers in the world. As the largest outlet of the Mississippi, from 30 to 50 per cent of the water flowing down the Mississippi is diverted into the Atchafalaya" (louisiana.sierraclub.org).

The river basin has been developed to serve as a diversion route for high water headed for Baton Rouge and New Orleans.

So it is not just central Louisiana, but over half the state that is dependent on the Atchafalaya River Basin for flood control.









Returning to the launch ramp, we passed this sight of the pillars supporting I-10. This section of the interstate runs for a little over 15 miles through the Atchafalaya River Basin.

The return to concrete was a jolt. The peace-fulness of the swamp was quite a contrast to the sounds of traffic.

"I must go down to the swamp again...."