So There I Am…

lounging on the sofa and flipping through the most recent issue of The Scott Connection—maybe I’ll stop here for a moment.

Wherever we go, I try to find and read the free local newspapers. Many of these are alternative-indie papers, which, in addition to having editorial positions that are decidedly more progressive than that of the areas served, contain comprehensive lists of upcoming events and local restaurants. And some—like The Scott Connection—serve a small community and contain local news (weddings, births, deaths, graduations, honor roll lists, etc.) and local business information.

On this occasion, I noticed this add. Now three things got my attention. First, Mire is just a short five miles up the road from our campground. Second, we always are intrigued by a place calling itself a diner. And third, there was the name Chef Roy Lyons, CEC. Now the former owner of Chef Roy’s Frog City Café was a Chef Roy Lyons. Could this be the same Chef Roy? There is only one way to find out. Road trip.

Following the directions in the ad was not difficult. This small town (so small that you can’t “Google” the population) has only one real intersection. So we made a left at the four–way stop and drove maybe a quarter of a mile down Grand Prairie Highway. Soon, across from a field of cows, we spied the diner’s sign.

Now some may be put off by the abandoned and dilapidated gas pumps and the somewhat spartan look of the building. But we have learned that behind some of the humblest doors lies the best food.

Equally spartan is the diner’s interior. This place can’t seat more than twenty-five. The tables are covered with flannel-backed plastic cloths and the stack-type chairs were in multiple colors. When we arrived perhaps four other tables were occupied, but soon after 1:00 p.m. we had the place to ourselves.

Our first question to the young server was “Is this the same Chef Roy?” Indeed it was.

“Chef Roy Lyons was born in Rayne in 1950…graduated from Rayne High School…attended USL and Nichols State University…In 1995, he completed the National Certification Test and received the American Chefs’ Federation Certified Executive Chef Diploma, based on his education, experience and achievements. Today he is one of the official spokespersons for the Louisiana Dept. of Agriculture and the Canadian National Television. His success has made him a world traveler, guided by his love of cooking and his expertise in promoting our Cajun Cuisine…. He has traveled the United States extensively, promoting the French Language and Cajun Cuisine from Miami to Las Vegas to Chicago…His international travels have taken Chef Roy to prepare Cajun meals in the following countries: Canada; Quebec, Belgium, France, Mexico, Costa Rico, Turkey, Holland, England, Nicaragua, Spain, and the Netherlands. He has been named as one of the ‘Top Chefs in France’…” (acadianmuseum.com/legends)

Displayed prominently on one wall is a plaque testifying to Chef Roy’s induction into the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs which “is the world’s oldest international gastronomic society, founded in Paris in 1248. It is devoted to preserving the camaraderie and pleasures of the table and to promoting excellence in all areas of the hospitality arts. Each year the society sponsors young chef and sommelier competitions that attract contestants from throughout the world, while the Chaîne Foundation provides scholarships for students in these fields. Chaîne is based on the traditions and practices of the old French royal guild of meat roasters. Revived in 1950, the society has professional and amateur members in more than 70 countries worldwide. In the United States, there are nearly 130 bailliages (chapters), each offering a variety of culinary activities to suit the interests of local members” (chaineus.org).

So what is Chef Roy doing running a small diner in the middle of nowhere? The answer involves helping a family member. But, based on our extended conversation with him, I also suspect that he missed being the master of his own domain or—in this case—kitchen.

Tomorrow: the results of the work in the kitchen.

The Atchafalaya Experience

Driving between Baton Rouge and Lafayette, LA, on I-10, we catch views of the Atchafalaya Swamp.

The desire to get closer views of the swamp led us to contact Kim Voorhies (on the left in the photo) and join him and his partner on "The Atchafalaya Experience" swamp tour.

The tour left from the Visitor's Center at Exit 121 on I-10 and presented us with this view of the divided lanes of the elevated highway through the swamp.

We're not sure how to describe the attraction that the Atchafalaya has on us, but this was our third tour company and the third portion of the swamp that we visited.

Given that the Atchafalaya River Basin covers over a million-acre swath of southern Louisiana, making it the largest swamp in the United States and one of the country's most ecologically-varied regions, we could look forward to many, many more tours of new areas.

Kim got us close to this giant blue heron and talked about best times for viewing many of the 300 species of birds that either live in or visit the swamp.

He also described how the dredging by the oil companies (to lay pipes through the swamp) has resulted in built-up "levees" that prevent the free flow of water through certain parts of the swamp. The trapped water can become stagnant behind these levees.

Our guide also pointed these areas in which hyacinths have covered large sections of the Atchafalaya. While noting the beauty of the flowers in the spring, he noted that the amount of the water surface covered by this plant is of great concern to all who love this area.

We five passengers began asking about the feasibility of harvesting the hyacinths and using it to feed animals or grinding it into particles to use in making either compost or a mulch. These and many other uses have been considered, with no solution.

These two fishermen were the only other people we saw on the over three-hour tour.

This was one of the few homes that we saw. Occupied for only a few months of the year, this home met all the re-quirements for safety and sanitation, and while it was interesting to imagine living here, we opted for life on terra firma.

Neverthe-less, the draw that the swamp had on us was strong. On more than one occasion during the tour, we have quoted the opening lines of John Masefield's poem*:

I must go down to the seas again,
to the lonely sea and the sky,
And all I ask is a tall ship
and a star to steer her by,...

Maybe, it's the "lonely sea and the sky" phrase that captures us. Viewing the swamp on a bright, sunny day seems as out of place as filming "Deadliest Catch" in calm seas off the coast of Alaska.

There were patches of blue sky as we began the tour, but as the day wore on, it became more overcast. The lonely quality of the lone tree or small groups of trees creates an air of mystery--and foreboding. Add a coat of heavy fog and a few unusual sounds, and the setting is perfect. The swamp conveys a mood of The Unknown.



The Atchafalaya Experience has been honored by the Rand McNally Company with their "Best of the Road Award 2003."

The Atchafalaya is described in the tour's brochure as Louisiana's answer to the Grand Canyon. It is North America's largest river swamp and ranks among the top 10 wilderness areas in the United States.

Kim Voorhies was recognized by the Lt. Governor of Louisiana for his endeavors to protect the environment and his earnest desire to expose his guests to the complex ecology and astounding beauty of the Atchafalaya Swamp.

A flock of cormorants watched our slow travel among the trees.

We will continue our tour of the Atchafalaya after a break.

* "I Must Go Down to the Sea". In our version, we substitute "swamp" for "sea," "sturdy boat" for "tall ship," and "guide" for "star."

Otherwise, it's the same.

“Eat, Drink, and Talk Loud…

You’re Among Friends!”

So says the menu for Cajan’s Eatery in Scott, LA, which has become an almost weekly stop during our stay near Lafayette, LA, and is where we make Stop Four of the “Real People Making Real Food” Tour.

The owner, Jan-Scott Richard “…was drafted to play indoor soccer for the Tallahassee Scorpions…As a side job, Jan found the job of his dreams…in an upscale downtown deli...(and) he soon realized that making sandwiches and friends was a natural talent for him. After several years of hard work, he purchased that same restaurant…What could be better??? LOVE!” (from the restaurant’s menu). That’s when Jan-Scott met Diana, got married in Scott, LA, and made Scott their home. Oh, one more thing, they opened Cajan’s (Not Cajun’s. Cajan’s for Jan-Scott.) Eatery.

And if you drive by Cajan’s anytime between 11:30 a.m. and 1:00 p.m., you will find the parking lot full—usually full of really big trucks.

And you know that these folks aren’t here because of the décor. That is unless you consider the large sunny-side up eggs or giant hot dog painted on the windows décor. Or you consider yellowing photos of fifty’s era diner patrons or old baseball memorabilia (below) to be décor.

Sure, we come for the food, but also because this very small (max seating of thirty-five) café is as comfortable as the proverbial old shoe. And I think Jan would take that as a compliment.

There is a set daily plate lunch (Monday—spaghetti and meatballs, Tuesday—meatball stew, Wednesday—fried pork chop, Thursday--Chef’s Special, Friday—seafood) and on a recent Friday the plate lunch was shrimp stew with rice and gravy, corn maque choux, cole slaw, and a roll. Way too much food! But there is also a long menu of burgers, pressed sandwiches, and poor boys and over the course of the past six weeks we have had the chance to sample a number of these menu items.

That same Friday the sandwich was the Crab Burger which should not be confused with a crab cake on a bun. Crab burgers, like their cousins the shrimp burger and the crawfish burger, are small bits of crab meat which are blended with bread crumbs and seasonings then formed into a patty and then fried—often deep-fat fried. If the idea of eating something with a high bread quotient on bread doesn’t sound appealing—don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. When properly fried, the patty develops an appealingly crisp exterior with a moist and soft interior. This came dressed with onion, lettuce, and tomato and their mildly-spicy, homemade chipotle dressing.

Cajan’s is the home of the “Scott Dog”—a truly different take on the noble hot dog. The dog is split lengthwise and grilled; then placed on a standard long bun and spread with a mild chili. The assembled sandwich is then pressed like a Cuban. Very original and quite tasty.

I finally had the opportunity to try a sandwich that has intrigued me since our initial visit last year—the Tuscan Turkey. This pressed sandwich contains lightly-smoked, deli-type turkey, American cheese, balsamic onions, lettuce, and tomato on sourdough bread spread with an herb and garlic mayo. The balsamic vinegar gave the onions both a tart and sweet flavor that went well with the smoked turkey. While I would have used a different cheese—maybe Swiss—this still was a good sandwich.

Chuck has been craving a cheesesteak, so one noon took a chance and ordered Cajan’s version. This sandwich had a lot going for it. The shaved beef was nicely chopped rather than being served in slices. The onions and peppers were seasoned with a Cajun/Creole mix while on the grill. And the white cheddar cheese melted through the pieces of meat so that each bite tasted of cheese.

But there was a problem. Soft bun syndrome—a common affliction in these parts. This sandwich called out for a good Amoroso’s of Philadelphia roll.

But what really keeps us coming back are Jan-Scott’s hamburgers. These are your old fashioned thin patty burgers that are cooked on a very hot flattop so that the crust is seared and has that magnificent beefy, charred flavor. Nothing fancy here—just a burger done right.

On one of our visits, Chuck scoured the menu looking for a double cheese-burger. “Do you have a twin burger?” he asked Jan. “No, but there's no problem doing one for you.” No big deal. You want it—we’ll do it.

But my favorite item is the Dixie Burger—the same thin patty with pepper jack cheese, caramelized onions, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and pickle with the chipotle dressing that came on my crab burger. Somehow, all of the different components mesh together into a savory and juicy whole. This is one of my all time favorite burgers.

Granted, Cajan’s onion rings will never be “Ode-Worthy” and the fries probably come frozen from a bag. Still, this 4.0 Addie eatery remains one of our favorites.

To review the role of Adler, Kitty Humbug, and the Addie rating system, read the November 14, 2011 blog.

A Traditional Mardi Gras

Wild costumes, elaborate floats, and lavish parties are all part of the New Orleans Mardi Gras celebrations, but in Cajun country of southwest Louisiana, the celebrations are quite different.

Hints of this difference appeared in the costumes worn by a handful of Mardi Gras participants early in the day.

More than a dozen south Louisiana prarie Cajun and Creole communities celebrate Fat Tuesday with a traditional courir de Mardi Gras, a day of unbridled festivity before the restraint of Lent.

Many of the customs associated with the Cajun country Mardi Gras can be traced back to ancient European rituals, passed down for generations through many cultures and brought to southwest Louisiana by early French and Acadian settlers.

Like all living traditions, the rural Mardi Gras has changed over time, but the ritual celebration retains much of its old character, symbolism and significance.

In commu-nities of Mamou, Eunice, Church Point and others, the day still begins with masked and costumed revelers riding on horseback or in trucks from house to house, begging gifts of food or money in exchange for performances of singing and dancing.

As always, it ends with the triumphant return of the Mardi Gras to town and the community gathering to share a day's bounty in a gros gumbo and dance which ends promptly at Midnight, the beginning of Ash Wednesday.

The Tee Mamou-Iota courir de Mardi Gras is one of few which has survived through the years without a break in continuity. This strong link with tradition and community conviction to its maintenance, combined with local innovation, make the Tee Mamou-Iota run a unique and fascinating event.

Once run on foot and later on horseback, the Tee Mamou-Iota Mardi Gras began to use trucks in the 1940's.

All who run the Tee Mamou-Iota Mardi Gras must wear traditional handmade costumes and masks. The Mardi Gras suits fashioned of colorful or motley fabric and fringe are topped by the tall, coneshaped hat called a capuchon which dates back to medieval times and symbolizes a mockery of the nobility. Homemade masks, traditionally constructed of wire screen, are creatively elaborated with beards, eyebrows and exaggerated features. In recent years, embroidered plastic mesh has also been employed as an innovation in the art of mask making. The capataine and his co-captains remain undisguised. They maintain discipline among the Mardi Gras and act as the liason between the Mardi Gras and the public. Each captain carries a distinctive whip of braided burlap, which is often used generously to keep unruly Mardi Gras in check.

On the surface, the behaviour of the Mardi Gras often seems to approach chaos. In reality, there is a very strong system of rules which underlies and controls the ritual. All Tee Mamou-Iota Mardi Gras must learn these rules as well as the song at mandatory organiza-tional meetings. Although everyone involved realizes that some rules are meant to be bent, part of being a successful runner is knowing the limits. During the run, Mardi Gras as well as captains moniter each other to ensure that the event does not get out of control.

A good Mardi Gras stretches pre-conceived notions of accepted behaviour to the limit. The runners are not shy about begging, an important feature of the event. The ages-old beggar's gesture of pointing to an extended cupped palm is frequently seen (see the person on the right with outstretched hands).

The usual request if for a few coins, but paper money is also accepted (as shown in the photo) by today's revelers.

The highlight of the day is the arrival of the Tee Mamou Courir de Mardi Gras on the main stage along with the capitaine to sing their traditional European chant in French that is dated back 400 years. Once the song is completed, the Mardi Gras descend onto the street like a colorful wave, dancing with any available ladies(iotamardigras.com).

Children are very much a part of the day's festivities. Yesterday's entry noted the focus on young musicians and the photos shown here were taken during the children's procession to the stage for a special program of recognition. In both cases the Cajun culture and traditions are preserved through the involvement of the children.

In the community of Iota, we could one see traditions preserved by a small group of Cajuns who are determined to relive a part of their heritage each year.