Saved By The…

no, not by the bell, but by the kitchen.

In addition to Benno’s on the Beach, our stay in Galveston had to include a lunch at Mosquito Café, a small bistro restaurant that we enjoyed the previous year.

“Mosquito Café is housed in a large yet quaint, renovated, two-story, 158-year-old structure in Galveston's historic East End, a little bit off the beaten path if you're accustomed to The Strand and Seawall. For twelve years, the cafe has been serving fresh, eclectic food ranging from sandwiches, pasta and salads to inspired brunch dishes in a spacious and bright atmosphere. The high ceilings and large windows provide a light, open space to enjoy a good meal on a sunny day if their patio happens to be packed” (Ginny Braud at houstonpress.com).

“The upscale eclectic menu has created a cult following among locals, nearby medical professionals, and visitors enticed by the originality of the grilled, roasted, sauteed and steamed dishes and any others tired of hush puppies, po-boys and fried shrimp combos. You won't find 'fried' anywhere on the menu" (Houston Chronicle).

When I blogged about Mosquito Café last year, I didn’t know why it had been named for a pesky insect. I still don’t. Is it named for “…the shrimp boats that comprise Galveston Island’s fishing flotilla known as the Mosquito Fleet” (texashighways.com) or because “Any local knows this city was built on a sweaty, pestilent, mosquito-infested swamp” (wikipedia.org)?

But this mobile hanging over our heads reminded me of the joke about the mosquito being the state bird of Minnesota. Perhaps the same hold true in Galveston.

Remembering that on our visit last year the café was packed and a line was forming to place orders at the counter, we were surprised to find the place virtually empty and with no line to be seen.

So we were able to waltz right up, order, pay, and take a seat at an empty table. So far so good. And here things begin to take a downward slide.

While we were waiting what seemed to be an unreasonable length of time for our food given the paucity of customers, we noticed a disturbing pattern of activity. The doors would open from the outdoor patio and a server would enter carrying a plate or two of food which was returned to the kitchen. This happened not just once but at least six times. Now when you see that much food being returned you begin to become concerned.

But then Chuck, who was seated facing the patio doors, solved the dilemma. There was a photographer taking photos of Mosquito Café’s food and when he was finished with a plate the staff brought it back to the kitchen.

But while this photo session was in progress, the kitchen’s sole attention was being paid to these plates that required an extra measure of preparation and presentation. But this meant that the couple who arrived just prior to us, the two of us, and the two women who arrived just after us sat and sat and sat. But somehow one single diner managed to receive her food in a speedy fashion. Is it a coincidence that, as she left, she greeted one of the staff members by name?

So while we waited we had the chance to closely study the art work by C. Outlaw (about whom I can find no information) that was hanging on the walls.

In reading current diners’ reviews of the café, most highly praised the innovativeness and quality of the food. But a number criticized what—for want of better term—I’ll call the café’s “attitude.” (Or what, in Philadelphia, we would call “addytude.”)

At no time did anyone try to explain the delay let alone provide an apology. Either would have gone a long way. Chuck was ready to walk out, but there was one impediment—we had already paid.

Finally, and with no “sorry” for the delay, our food arrived and was just as good as we remembered and the day was salvaged.

My selection was the Kahuna Tuna sandwich—grilled medium rare ahi tuna with wasabi cream, spicy sambal (a Chinese chile paste) vinaigrette, lettuce, and tomato on a honey wheat bun. The tuna was medium rare as advertised and the flavor of the wasabi and sambal was the perfect accompaniment.

And from the daily list of a half-dozen or so sides, I chose the Thai Garlic Noodles, and the soy, sesame, and garlic continued the Asian theme.

Chuck’s choice was the Turkey Divinity—a sandwich made with roasted turkey, melted brie, hickory smoked peppered bacon, grilled apples, lettuce, and garlic-herb mayo on a French baguette.

This was not a sandwich one ate out-of-hand. Rather, this needed to be tackled with a knife and fork. And the combination of smoky bacon, musty (my descriptor) brie cheese, and sweet and yet tart apples went perfectly with the more gamey taste of the turkey. His side of choice was the house-made potato salad made with thin sliced potatoes, shredded carrot, and a light and faintly sweet dressing.

So while on this occasion I have to give Mosquito Café a failing grade in the customer-service department, the food retains its 5.0 Addie status.

To review the role of Adler and the Addie rating system, read the November 14, 2011 blog.